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Fendi: a return to the future in a minimalist key

Kim Jones has rescued some of Karl Lagerfeld’s archives for the Italian firm from the turn of the century. The result is a minimalist and laconic collection in terms of color that recalls the beginning of the millennium, but also a time that is yet to come.

The 2000s continue to guide the fashion roadmap and Fendi underlines its commitment to the cause with its latest proposal. It is not new that the Italian house advocates the change of the millennium as inspiration since Kim Jones took the reins, the designs have looked to the archives of the brand regularly. However, on this occasion, the collection moves away from the more purely 2YK interpretation that we saw in others (such as Resort 2023 or even Autumn/Winter 2022 ) and sinks its claws into that glossy minimalism of the turn of the century.

Satin finishes, neutral colors, and touches of color that elevate the entire proposal thus become the main protagonists of a parade in which the garments have remained largely clinging to the color range of beige (already almost the house’s flagship). , reserving the color scheme for three unique and exclusive saturated tones: Flubber green, salmon pink, and cornflower blue. All of this is applied to floral motifs from the Fendi archive, but also to luxurious – albeit relaxed – garments that reveal that functional essence that Jones craves so much. “What I find particularly interesting about Fendi is exploring the notion of functional utility alongside femininity., because Fendi women are strong and manage complex lives full of activity”, declared the designer in the statement issued by the firm.

A small preview of what was to come and in which a clue was also given regarding the inspiration that the creative director has considered, since as confirmed by the firm, Jones has decided to resort to the work of Karl Lagerfeld from 1996 to 2002 for the Italian house as a starting point for the entire collection. “I want to focus on what Karl has done and see how we can develop those ideas both visually and technically,” he explained. Thus, in addition to the recovered print, a logo launched in 2000 also serves as a link with the past, which is now adapted, however, to a much more futuristic and relaxed aesthetic than usual.

A retro-futuristic aesthetic that could also be seen in the shoes (rubber boots and sandals with marked and bulging platforms) and, of course, also in the flagship of the house: the bags. Clutches and totes in monochromatic patent leather or with plush finishes that, once again, take us back to the fun 2000s but from a much higher, sophisticated, and also ethereal prism. And, without a doubt, this new Spring/Summer 2023 collection is presented much lighter than usual thanks to deconstructed silhouettes, technical organza fabrics, or nylon knitwear that has shaped cargo pants, midi skirts, or lingerie dresses. A proposal that appeals and, above all, that finds that difficult balance between the new and the familiar; between the industry and the street, and, of course, between Fendi and Jones.


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